You may be a watch expert or have been newely introduced to them but either way here are some of the terms we think are most important for you to know especially before splashing out on a new watch.

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SHOP WATCHES

 

 

Crown

The crown is a button usually located on the side of a watch, it is used for setting the time and date, in mechanical watches it winds the movement and mainspring as well. Some crowns are threaded this tightens the crown into the case by screwing it, known as a screw down crown this is essential if you intend to wear your watch while swimming, it also protects the crown from accidental knocks.

Chronometer

A chronometer is a watch with a movement that has been rated by the official Swiss testing laboratory called the Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometeres (COSC). These tests involve measuring the accuracy of the movement in 3 different temperatures and in 5 different positions for 15 consecutive days. The mechanical watches which go through this process may not have a daily variation of more than -4 or +6 seconds per day. The chronometer certification ensures that each individual mechanical watch tested is durable and incredibly precise.

Tachymeter Scale

The tachymeter scale enables the wearer to measure the speed of a certain distance. The wearer can read the speed in units per hour off the tachymeter scale. It is usually engraved on the bezel or the outside diameter of the dial.

Bezel

The Bezel is a ring on the top of the case around the crystal. The bezels purpose is to measure in time increments. Some bezels can be turned, some can only be turned in one direction known as uni-directional bezels and some can turn either way known as bi-directional bezels. The purpose of a rotating bezel is to be able to begin timing an event at any given point by lining up the bezels #12 at the beginning point. Fixed bezels also have a purpose, most of them feature a scale such as a Tachymeter scale.

Caliber

The caliber refers to the specific mechanism that can be found inside the watch. Some brands produce their own movements while others use the movements from another company. The caliber and its number will denote what features the watch has and where the mechanism has come from.

Chronograph

To put it simply a chronograph is a watch with a stopwatch function. A chronograph both measures and displays elapsed times in addition to showing conventional time. Generally, the chronograph mechanism is driven by the movement of the watch and is operated by two buttons on the side of the case which start, stop and reset the chronograph. Usually the chronograph seconds hand is the large center seconds with sub-dials for elapsed minutes and hours but the exact layout and display may vary between models and brands.

Case

The metal housing that contains the watch’s parts. It is most common for it to be stainless steel but you can also find them in precious metals such as platinum, gold and silver however they are usually more expensive.

Case Back

To put it simply it’s just the back of the case. It usually holds information about the watch such as brand, water resistance, serial number and materials. You can also get an exhibition case back which is a case back that is transparent and made of the same crystal used to cover the dial. This enables you to see into the workings of the watch and adds interest into the design.

Dial

This is the face of the watch which shows the time. Dials usually come in many different colours and finishes, featuring a range of hour markers depending on your preference.

GMT

GMT or Greenwich Mean Time is the standard by which all world time is set. When the GMT term is used with watches it refers to the ability of the watch to show local time and the time in at least one other time zone in a 24-hour mode.

Main Plate

The base plate upon which all other parts of a watch movement are mounted.

Mainspring

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The spring that provides the power to drive a mechanical watch's movement.

Movement

The motor of the watch that makes it keep time and perform functions. For example, you can get manual, automatic or quartz movements.

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Winding

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This is the action of tightening the mainspring in a watch. It can be done manually by the crown or with a rotor weight which moves by the movement of the wearers wrist in automatic models.

Crystal

This is the transparent cover that protects the watch dial and hands. It can be made out of glass, plastic or sapphire crystal.

Power Reserve

The power reserve is how the power is stored in a watch between winding. When the watch is wound the mainspring stores energy and slowly releases it over time. Once it has run out you need to wind it again. It is most common for a watch to have a power reserve of 40-50 hours however it depends between brand and model.

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Water Resistance

The water resistance of a watch is measured in meters, bars or atmospheres. In terms of resistance 1 bar is equal to 10 meters. Some watches are said to be ‘water resistant’ or water resistant to 30 meters this likely means they are resistant to very small amounts of water such as splashes and should definitely not be submerged in water. If you have any question about the level of water resistance your watch has its best to contact the manufacturer so you don’t damage it.

Pushers

The pushers are buttons which control the chronograph. They are usually located on either side of the crown. If your watch has pushers, you can find the action they perform in the manual.

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Strap/Bracelet

The method in which your watch case is secured to your wrist. The word strap is usually used if it is made of fabric or leather whereas bracelet is used for a metal strap.

Aperture

A small opening found on the dial of some watches where certain indications are given, such as the day and the date.

Helium Escape Valve

Helium escape valves are one-way valves that are fitted to the case of professional diver’s watches, they can either be automatic or manually operated.

Complication

A complication is any function on a watch other than the display of the time, such as the date, the moon phase, how much power is left before it needs to be re-wound etc. A grand complication is a watch that has at least 3 functions, other than time-keeping.

Horology

The science of measuring time.

For more information or if you would like to place an enquiry please contact our watch team on 02476 347 038 or email [email protected].